Italy 2019

Italy First Stop Udine

Train from Klagenfurt Austria to Udine: A beautiful compact old city area with lots of history. Although the origins date back to the Neolithic age one of the legends is that Attila the Hun built a hill here in the fifth century now believed to be the site of the castle. Later it became part of the Western Roman Empire and became important in the area for economy and trade. Then in 1420 it was conquered by the Republic of Venice and remained in Venetian control until 1797 and eventually became part of the kingdom of Italy in 1866. Just a lovely place to wander and see historic buildings of the Venetian and Roman style with a mix of designs and architecture and also the Castle mainly dating back to around the 16th century with some remains as early as the 10th century. We found it to be a really good place to stay for a couple of nights on the way to Venice.

Train to Venice: Validate your tickets on all transport in Italy or get fined heavily. Venice is fantastic but very expensive compared to the rest of Italy. Even the toilets are 2 to 3 times the price. We stayed on Murano Island as the price looked better than Venice itself. Good hotel and very close to the shops, restaurants and ferries. A wonderfully quiet place to stay and night time is beautiful with a great restaurant close by. About 40 minutes to an hour travel to most parts of Venice and after negotiating all the crowds a great place to go home to. Suggest you buy ferry tickets for your stay as you exit the railway station when you arrive. We needed 5 day but had to buy 7 days and we used them as much as we could travelling from place to place. We mainly spent our time walking and seeing as much of Venice as we could in the four full days we had there. Any of the major tourist places like the Basilica we decided were too expensive for us. We did visit the Glass Museum on Murano Island and found that a great experience to see all the different styles and fashions of glass making since the inception of the industry. Also a visit to the island of Burano is a good trip. A beautifully picturesque little island full of colour and an education in the art of lacemaking. We also visited the Lido but found it to be a little too much like a holiday resort for us, but still an interesting place to visit.

Train to Pesaro: We decided that this was a good place to travel to from Venice as not too long a distance. It is now primarily a holiday resort and most of the major hotels are closed in October and a bit hard to find restaurants open. Founded as many others by the Romans around 184BC however history tells us it may be a lot older. Mixed settlements have occupied the city over the centuries and it became a trading and craftsmanship centre in Roman times and an important city in the middle ages. As you wander the streets it is not unusual to see some very old buildings some of them gradually being restored. Later buildings like the Ruggari House show the popularity of the city as a holiday haven for the wealthy and well to do. Unfortunately the 15th century Fortress Castle is only open for summer cultural events. We found it to be a pleasant and interesting place to stay for a few days after Venice.

Train to Pescara: We felt that Pescara was just a holiday resort. Fine if you wanted that but in October with a lot of the attractions closed down not a great deal to offer.

Train to Lecce: A fair distance to travel but very much worth it. We should have stayed here a bit longer. Such a lovely city to visit and the more you walked the more historic places to see. Originally named Sybar during the Trojan War it was captured by the Romans in the 3rd century BC and renamed Lupiae. Also close by is the Trojan Port of San Cataldo. A lot of history but not much of it remains as it is mainly a holiday resort now. As you wander the streets there is so much history to see including an ancient amphitheatre and lots of centuries old streets, houses, churches and cathedrals. The whole city has such a rich history covering different empires and kingdoms over so many different periods and we felt that in the short time we were there we only touched the surface.

Train Across to Reggio di Calabria: A very long journey across the base of the Italian Boot, no food no drinks on the train. This city sits in a picturesque location looking out at the Straits Of Messina and Sicily. Although situated in a beautiful spot it would have to be one of the filthiest cities we've ever been in. The Aragonese Castle's origins date back to the 6th century during the war of the Goths and Byzantines. Over the centuries it changed hands depending on the rulers at the time. During the Italian Unification in the early 19th century it became a political prison. It has now been substantially restored but somewhat different to the original. Well worth a visit to see and view the history of the place and its commanding position over the city and landscape. We found some interesting historical buildings but found the rubbish and uncared for atmosphere depressing.

Travel by Bus to the Ferry Terminal then Train to Agrigento: A lovely and historical place to base yourself in Sicily. Originally named Akragas and founded as a Major Ancient Greek City during the 5th and 6th centuries BC. Also just down the hill is the ancient site of the Valley of the Temples dating to similar periods. Agrigento itself is a great mixture of the ancient, old and modern and you can wander for days and marvel at the mixed history of the city and its architecture. Although much of the Valley of the Temples is in ruins a great deal of archeological excavation and restoration is continually being carrried out. Also sign boards throughout the site explain fully the history and various buildings and implements discovered and the museum on site has much more.

We hired a car for 3 days and visited Mount Etna and Villa Romana del Casale. Although a long trip to the other side of the island we found the car the best way to travel despite getting lost several times. A visit to Mount Etna is a must to be able to understand is some ways the power of this erupting volcano and also the scale of the damage it can cause from its great height. The view from there is something else. Villa Romana del Casale was constructed in the early 4th century AD on the remains of a masters residence on an agricultural estate. Excavations have revealed that it contains the largest, richest and varied collections of Roman mosaics in the world. A variety of incredible frescoes cover the interior and exterior of the villa. It remained inhabited for at least 150 years and was partly destroyed in the late 5th century whilst some of the outbuildings continued to be used until most were destroyed and abandoned in the late 12th century. The preservation of mosaics and frescoes are due to the landslides and floods covering the area. Excavations and restoration commenced in 1929 and continue to the present day.

Train from Agrigento to Palermo: Palermo the Capital of Sicily. We spent 3 nights there and spent about 21/2 days wandering around. Palermo is so full of history I think you would need a great deal of time to see and apreciate all there is to offer there. We picked a number of places to see. The Pretoria Fountain is amazing in its complexity and variety of subjects both animal and human despite the upsets with the local people and clergy about the nudity and profanity of its subjects. Close by is the Chiesa di San Cataldo erected in 1154 of Arab and Norman architecture it shows Islamic and Byzantine features in its construction. The Teatro Massimo is a magnificent building unfortunately closed on our visit. The Mirto Palace Museum is a 17th century aristocratic home and one of the few still open. Built on the foundation of a 13th century building it houses much of the artwork and furniture of the Lanza Filigieri Family. A great example of an historic aristocratic palace. It was given to the government of Sicily in 1982. The Cattedrale di Palermo is one of the most magnificent cathedrals in Palermo and houses some incredible treasures and jewels from its history. Erected in 1185 during the Anglo Norman period on the area of an early Byzantine basilica. According to accounts the earlier church was turned into a mosque by the Saracens after their 9th century conquest. Apart from the architectural beauty and artworks it also houses a number of sarcophargi and tombs of ancient royalty and monastic figures. Just walking along the Via Vittorio Emanuele we found the No Mafia Memorial. A fascinating history of Mafia in Sicily the memorial / museum is a non profit organisation, no entry fee, but donations are welcome. Well worth the visit for a better understanding.

Train from Palermo to Messina and then Ferry across to Villa San Giovanni: Nothing to report from Villa San Giovanni as we only stayed there for one night. A good place to stay if you're travelling on to more places on the mainland after a train ride across Sicily.

Train from Villa San Giovanni to Pompeii. A great place to stay if you intend to visit Herculaneum, Naples, Vesuvius, Sorrento or even The Island of Capri. We found a great little apartment across the road from one of the main entrances to Ancient Pompeii. Pompeii is a great place to base yourselves and fairly quiet at night. A lot cheaper than Naples or Sorrento. Lots of restaurants and bars and some very good tourist shops. There are local buses and tour buses to all the main sites and also two train lines to choose from depending on where you are visiting.

Ancient Pompeii: It seems with a lot of the tour groups that they have a very limited time here. We spent the best part of 5 to 6 hours wandering and could go back and still see more. It covers and incredible nearly 67 hectares or about 170 acres. Its earliest date is around 740BC under the Greeks but over the centuries many civilizations occupied the city including the Oscans (Italian), Phonicians, Etruscans, Samnites the Romans and others. There are examples of the many different types of buildings and structures throughout the site and more are being discovered as the archeologists delve into the different aspects of life including just prior to eruption of Vesuvius in AD79. As seen from The Porta Marina the city bordered the coastline and was considered a safe port whereas now the coast is 700mtrs. away due I think mainly to the volcanic eruption.

Ancient Herculaneum: Not too far from Pompeii by road. We used a local tour company but I think you can get there by bus or train. Very compacted compared to Pompeii and below the level of present day Ercolano (Italian modernisation of the name). Another example of a town being buried, forgotten and built over during numerous centuries. Archeologists are still tunnelling under Ercolano looking for more ruins of this fascinating town but are obviously restricted because of present day and other historic buildings from the years and centuries after the deluge and burial of Herculaneum during the eruption of Vesuvius. We found it much the same as Pompeii being a smaller version of the same period. Possibly a much wealthier town than its neighbour Pompeii and considered to be a popular seaside retreat for the Roman elite. The traditional story was that Herculaneum was rediscovered in 1709 during the digging of a well. After that a number of the treasures and works of art were removed by treasure hunters. Because of the total deluge of lava covering Herculaneum a considerable part of the buildings including most timber items and food were preserved. Ancient tradition connects the name Herculaneum with the Greek hero Hercules as the founder of the town and Vesuvius.

Vesuvius: You can travel here by car local bus and tour bus. Very steep walk from the car park up to the main parts of the Volcano. It still lets off steam all the time and you can really see that it is a living thing. The view from here is really something else and seeing all the towns, villages and communities below you can start to understand the catastrophe that occurred when it eruped in 79AD. Some of the results of the volcanic lava can be seen on the slopes below the volcano. We have to say that the transportable toilets here are disgusting and considering the income that Vesuvuis creates the facilities could be much better.

Train Ride into Naples from Pompeii: You can choose either the main train line (Trenitalia) or the local line (Circumvesuviana). They operate from two different stations. We travelled to Naples for two trips as there's an awful lot to see. Being the third largest city in Italy there's quite a lot of distance to walk around. We chose a limited amount of attractions. Firstly the Castle Nuovo erected in 1279 directly above the existing harbour a very commanding and scenic position. A royal seat for the Kings of Naples, Aragon and Spain. It contains a small museum with some associated artworks but a visit is mainly to see the interior and the view to the harbour. Much of it seems closed to the public. Next around the block and up the road to the Royal Palace. Built in the 17th century on the site of a former residence housing the former viceroy of Spain Don Pedro de Toledo. With the arrival in 1734 of Charles III of Spain it became the royal residence of the Bourbons. Successively over the years extensions were added until in the 18th century the royal residence was moved to Reggia of Caserta. Over further years part of it became a library and more extensions, decorations and furnishings were added during the Napoleonic era and in the early 19th century the National Library was transferred here. Today the palace houses the Teatro San Carlo, Teatrino di Corte, the Biblioteca Nazionale Vittorio Emanuele III, a museum and offices including those of the regional tourist board. Second day spent mainly at the National Archeological Museum built in 1585 as a cavalry barracks and then from 1616 to 1777 as the seat of The University of Naples and from the 9th century onwards as a museum with many changes to its structure. Some of the main collections are from Greek, Roman and Renaissance times and particularly artifacts from Ancient Pompeii, Herculaneum and Stabiae. The museum was formerly known as the Royal Bourbon Museum. It also houses numerous collections of bronzes, mosaics including The Alexander Floor Mosaic from Pompeii, Egyptian artifacts and marble from the Farnese Collection. We were also lucky enough to see and participate in a ballroom dancing presentation in The Great Hall.

Train Ride on Circumvesuviana to Sorrento: A very scenic ride there and back. Sorrento is a beautiful seaside retreat probably particularly good in the summer season but pretty expensive. The town is full of hotels, apartments, fancy restaurants and bars, and any kind of high end shops with lots of souvenir shops as well. We enjoyed our day out there wandering the streets and the beach areas. Well known as a romantic getaway for the rich and famous for many years.

Last Train Ride Into Rome: Four nights here in a very nice apartment great position in one of the old parts of the city just across the river from the Vatican. We walked just about everywhere but the transport system is great with either buses or the light rail / trams. Tickets are cheaper bought from the small shops generally near the stops. We have to say that wherever you go in Rome there is history on every corner whether it be ancient or a little less ancient. Several places we had to see and some we just found in getting lost or just walking.

Firstly we got lost looking for the Colosseum and found The Palatine Hill one of the most ancient parts of the city dating to around the 10th century BC. mostly occupied by the houses of the rich. Also a large park that was originally The Circo Massima a massive area originally an ancient Roman chariot racing stadium and entertainment area measuring around 7.5 hectares and the model for circuses throughout the Roman Empire. Continuing to walk in the wrong direction we found The Thermae Antoninianae Caracalla Baths an enormous public bath area, the second largest in Rome and built in the early 3rd century AD and in continuous use until approximately 530 AD and then fell into ruin and misuse. Around the 12th to 19th centuries a quarry was operating and a lot of the materials were used for construction of other notable buildings in Rome. There is numerous information about its uses and history to be read online.

We eventually found the correct direction to go for the Colosseum where along the way you can see more of The Palatine Hill and Ancient Rome. In the distance coming from this direction you will see The Arch of Constantine erected in 315 AD to commemorate the Battle of Milvian Bridge and Constantine's victory against Maxentius in 312 and stands on Rome's Triumphal Route just before you reach The Colosseum. Built in 70 to 80 AD it was the largest amphitheatre of its time and could accommodate 50,000 to 80,000 spectators. It is a fantastic sight to see and although a lot of it is in ruins there is a massive reconstruction continually in process. Walking around and through it you can see most of the history that you have heard and read about of its use throughout the centuries and imagine the gladitorial contests, mock sea battles, animal hunts, executions and the like that were held there.

Some of the other must sees as you walk around Rome. As mentioned before everywhere you go there is some history your are passing. The Ancient Rome City we felt ran into The Palatine Hill and there are areas adjacent to The Colosseum and you can see the area from various locations. We passed it several times as we walked around but didn't pay the entry fee to go in as we were limited in time. A stunning monument not far from The Colosseum is The Il Vittoriano or Victor Emmanuel II Monument, a national monument to him as the first king of a unified Italy. Construction started in 1885. Of course The Spanish Steps have to be seen, just magnificent. Opened in 1725 the 136 steps rise up the steep slope to the Trinita dei Monti Church and were named after the Spanish Embassy to Holy See. Another must is The Trevi Fountain (Three Coins In A Fountain). Another unforgettable experience, opened in 1762 standing 26.3mtrs. high and 49.15 mtrs. wide it is just a magnificent structure. The Pantheon is a very ancient building originally a Roman Temple and now a Catholic Church completed by the Emperor Hadrian and dedicated around 126AD. Very well preserved and in constant use throughout its history the inside is magnificent.

Our last day was spent visiting The Castel Sant Angelo and The Vatican both on the other side of the river from our apartment. The Castel Sant Angelo or The Mauseleum of Hadrian is a towering cylindrical close The Vatican later used as by the popes as a fortress and castle. Built in 123 to 139AD it has served many purposes over the centuries. Linked to St. Peter's Basilica with a fortified covered corridor at one time it was used as a refuge, also once used as a prison, it is now a museum. Once the tallest building in Rome it is a great building to visit and the view from it is breathtaking. Once we reached The Vatican we were just about historied and museumed out so just spent the time wandering around the area. The buildings of course are magnificent and it is a great experience to wander in the footsteps of so many religious figures of the past and just feel the spirits of the place.

An easy ride on the light rail / tram and then the train through to the airport and back to Australia.

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Udine Cathedral	Udine Castle	Udine Cathedral Tower	Sun Clock Piazza Udine	Loggia Del Lionello Udine
Validate Your Tickets Or Get Fined Heavily	Barque of Dante Venice Lagoon	Church of St. Peter Martyr Murano Island Venice	The Campanile San Marco Venice	Basilica San Marco Venice
Bridge of Sighs Venice	Murano Glass Museum Venice	Grand Canal Venice	Gondola in Venice	Victor Emmanuel Monument Venice
Fortress Castle of Constance Pesaro	Golden Sphere Pesaro	Ruggeri House Pesaro	Old House Pesaro	Oduardo Giansanti Poet Pesaro
Ponte Del Mare Bridge Pescara	View to The River Pescara	Monument to The Fallen WW1 & WW2 Lecce	Porta San Biagio Lecce (South Entrance Old City)	Ancient Olive Tree Lecce
Ancient Amphitheatre Lecce	Street Figures Old City Lecce	Basilica di Santa Croce Lecce	Lecce Castle	Lecce Old City
Cathedral of Reggio Calabria (Roman Catholic)	Old Majestic Mansion	Aragonese Castle Reggio Calabria	Aragonese Castle View to Sicily	Monument Vittorio Emmanuele III
Former Homes in Sandstone Rock Agrigento	Apartment View Agrigento	One of the Many Churches Agrigento	Sandstone Building Agrigento	View from Mount Etna
Mount Etna	Mount Etna	Mount Etna	Villa Romana	Entrance to Villa Romana
Villa Romana	Villa Romana	Basilica Villa Romana	Main Square Villa Romana	Villa Romana
Vase from Valley of The Temples	Fallen Giant Valley of The Temples	Temple at Valley of The Temples	Ancient Olive Tree Valley of The Temples	Copy of Ancient Crane Valley of The Temples
Temple at Valley of The Temples	Agrigento from Valley of The Temples	Shameless Nudes Pretoria Fountain Palermo	Shameless Nudes Pretoria Fountain Palermo	Chiesa Di San Cataldo Palermo
Teatro Massimo Palermo	Marble Wall Carving Mirto Palace Palermo	Mirto Palace Armory Palermo	Mirto Palace Stables & Carriage	Mirto Palace Artworks
Cattedrale di Palermo	Artworks of Cattedrale di Palermo	Jewels of Cattedrale di Palermo	Treasures of Cattedrale di Palermo	Catacombs of Cattedrale di Palermo
Chiesa di San Cataldo Palermo	Train Across Sicily	Roman Amphitheatre Pompeii	Roman Amphitheatre Pompeii	Grape Vines Pompeii
Julia Felix Fishponds Pompeii	Grand Mansion Pompeii	Fullonica di Stephanus Laundry Pompeii	Lupanar of Pompeii Brothel	Pompeii Theatre
Ancient Pompeii Coastal Shoreline	Local Food Shop Herculaneum	Street Scene Herculaneum	Herculaneum under Present Day Ercolano	Wine and Olive Oil Shop Herculaneum
Mosaic of Herculaneum	Bathhouse Herculaneum	Herculaneum Underground	The Coast from Vesuvius	Vesuvius
Neptune Fountain Naples	Castle Nuovo Naples	Artwork Castle Nuovo Naples	Harbour View Castle Nuovo Naples	Royal Palace of Naples
Artwork Royal Palace Naples	Artwork Royal Palace Naples	Beautiful Screens Royal Palace Naples	Ceiling Artwork Royal Palace Naples	Furniture and Artwork Royal Palace Naples
Ballroom Archeological Museum Naples	Mosaics Archeological Museum	Mosaics Archeological Museum	Artwork Archeological Museum	Mazzocchi Horse Archeological Museum Naples
Alexander Floor Mosaic Pompeii Museum Naples	Waterfront and Pools Sorrento	Ancient Fig Tree Sorrento	Looking Down to The Water Sorrento	Excelsior Vittoria Hotel from Harbour Sorrento
Car Parking Rome	Our Apartment Front Door Rome	Fountain of Neptune Rome	Spanish Steps Rome	Trevi Fountain Rome
Romulus and Remus Rome	Arch of Constantine Colosseum Rome	Ancient Rome	Ancient Rome	Colosseum Rome
Inside The Colosseum Rome	Pantheon Rome	Thermae Antoninianae Caracalla Baths Rome	Castel Sant Angelo Rome	The Vatican Rome